The Kentucky Derby – And they’re off!

A look at the fastest two minutes in sports and its ties to the Bourbon industry 

Written by: Maggie Kimberl

In Kentucky, horse racing culture and Bourbon culture are almost indistinguishable. The two industries grew up together, side by side, different aspects of the same agricultural traditions from the frontier days of the Commonwealth. Over the decades both traditions have turned into the signature industries of the Commonwealth of Kentucky, all the while maintaining strong ties between the two. Today both industries are more popular than ever and The Kentucky Derby, presented by Woodford Reserve, showcases this relationship internationally as the oldest continually running sporting event in the United States.

“Kentucky has long been known for two things, Bourbon and horses,” says Woodford Reserve assistant master distiller Elizabeth McCall. “The limestone filtered water is the link between the two. This water is nutrient rich, full of calcium, magnesium, potassium which contributes to strong bones for thoroughbreds and iron free, flavorful water to make Bourbon. The two industries are a perfect pairing, Woodford Reserve is the most well suited Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey for the job. Our distillery is nestled amongst some of the most prestigious breeding farms in the industry and is one of the few distilleries where you can see Bourbon and young foals maturing side by side.”


“Legend has it that the industry kind of starts with the trips to New Orleans when people would buy fast horses for their trips home,” says Bourbon historian, Michael Veach. “The idea was that if your horse was faster than the bandits who were trying to rob you, you had a better chance of getting home alive. Once you got home, then you had a fast horse that you could then start breeding. We’re talking late 1700s to
early 1800s.”

1937 Derby First Turn

Back then the rivers were the main highway system, but before steamboats were invented, the trip to sell your goods, including whiskey, in major markets such as New Orleans was often one-way. In fact, this well-known trade circle is believed by some historians, including Veach, to be the source of Bourbon’s name, having taken it from the street upon which it was most often enjoyed. This trip took a matter of weeks to get there by flat boat, but a matter of months to return. Horses could make that trip much faster and considerably safer.

Over the next several decades, many families in the distilling business also found themselves in the horse racing business.

1924 Winner_s Circle

“As Bourbon and horses are two of Kentucky’s signature industries, the paths do cross,” says Chris Goodlett, director of curatorial & educational affairs for the Kentucky Derby Museum. “The family of Hamilton C. Applegate owned stock in Churchill Downs, as well as a distillery and a horse farm. The name of their signature Bourbon was Old Rosebud, which was also the name of their 1914 Kentucky Derby winner. Wathen Knebelkamp became Churchill Downs president in 1959 after serving in leadership positions in both the Schenley and Bernheim distilleries. Warner
L. Jones, Jr. started Hermitage Farm in 1935, bred 1953 Kentucky Derby winner Dark Star and served as board chairman of Churchill Downs from 1984-1992. He descended from the family that started Four Roses.”

Historically you don’t have to look very hard to find distillers and distillery owners who were also horse owners or breeders.

“The most famous was James Pepper,” says Veach. “He had horses both in The Kentucky Derby and in The Kentucky Oaks. His horse Miss Dixie actually won the Kentucky Oaks one year.”

“James E. Pepper and Ella Offutt Pepper owned Meadowthorpe Farm in addition to the distillery,” says James Pepper Distilling Co. visitor center manager, Marjorie Amon. “Pepper raced his horses in all the big races but he never won and he rarely sold. At the turn of the century he was overexposed in both whiskey and horses and wound up bankrupt, both the distillery and horses were seized. That’s when Ella went down to downtown Lexington and bought the horses back at auction, when everyone saw it was colonel pepper’s wife bidding on the horses, no one bid against her. She then took control of the horses, training them, racing them, and she did win the big races. In fact, she was so successful she earned herself the nickname “queen of the turf.” Her success was widely published and she ultimately earned enough money from selling her horses that she was able to stake the colonel to buy back the distillery out of foreclosure.”

Bourbon and horses are two of Kentucky’s signature industries


“The inaugural Kentucky Derby was run in 1875 at the Louisville Jockey Club and Driving Park Association, later known as Churchill Downs,” says Goodlett. “Meriwether Lewis Clark, Jr. was the founder and first president. Clark’s grandfather was William Clark, one half of the well-known Lewis and Clark expedition. The land on which to build the track was owned by Clark’s uncles, John and Henry Churchill (hence the name Churchill Downs). Clark was heavily influenced by racing in Europe and was particularly fond of the Epsom Derby, run at Epsom Downs in England. The Epsom Derby is a race for three-year-old thoroughbreds at a distance of 1.5 miles on grass. Clark’s Kentucky Derby was also designated for 

three-year-olds at 1.5 miles, but run on the dirt. The Derby has been run at its current distance of 1.25 miles since 1896. The Derby has never missed a year and will be run for the 145th time in 2019, making it the oldest continuously held major sporting event in the United States.”

Clark was also related to George Rogers Clark, who founded the city of Louisville.

“The inaugural Derby in 1875 had an estimated attendance of 10,000,” continues Goodlett. “The average Derby attendance during the past 10 years has been more than 160,000, and its momentum is not slowing down any time soon.”

At The Kentucky Derby, traditions have been born and have grown stronger during the years. Even the iconic mint julep cocktail has been around since the beginning.

“All evidence points to mint juleps being part of the Kentucky Derby since the inaugural running in 1875,” says Goodlett. “Newspapers of the 19th century reference juleps in regards to thoroughbred racing. There are stories of lore and legend regarding early runnings of the Derby and juleps. One story states that Clark served a julep to actress Helena Modjeska in 1877, and she was quite the fan. Another story states that Clark grew mint for juleps behind the clubhouse in the 19th century. The julep begins to be marketed as the official beverage of the Derby in the 1930s, around the time of the creation of the official glass in 1939.”

Other iconic Kentucky Derby traditions have nothing to do with Bourbon, but they are just as recognizable.

“I’ll start with the Kentucky Derby Gold Cup, first presented in 1924 to the owner of the winning horse,” says Goodlett. “There has been one significant change to the trophy. In 1999, the horseshoe tines were turned up as lore says that tines turned down make the luck run out. I’d also mention the Garland of Roses draped over the horse in the winner’s circle, an annual tradition since 1932. Lastly, I would cite the singing of My Old Kentucky Home during the post parade, a tradition in some form since 1921.”


Last year Woodford Reserve entered into a five year agreement to become the presenting sponsor of The Kentucky Derby, though parent company Brown-Forman has long sponsored and supported other aspects of horse racing, both at Churchill Downs and at other racetracks. 

The history of sponsorship and advertising between the distilled spirits industry and
the horseracing industry goes way back to the beginning.


“Horse Racing has been used in spirits advertising for a long long time,” says Veach. “The Filson [Historical Society] has one that shows them drinking the whiskey as the horses are running to the finish line. And that dates from around the 1880s.”

Veach also points out that in the not-so-distant past, Woodford Reserve actually bought a racehorse and was offering shares in that horse. Ultimately, they decided to put their energy into sponsorships, which propelled both Bourbon and The Kentucky Derby into the international spotlight.

“Making the official toast on national television was definitely one of the most exciting moments of my career,” says McCall. “I spent the weeks leading up to it practicing at home in front of my husband, Matt. He would pretend he was the camera man or someone cheering. I was nervous and excited, it was such a huge honor. I’ll never forget the energy of that moment, surrounded by my colleagues and my husband by my side in the pouring rain to give this toast. Everyone was so pumped for Woodford, the Bourbon industry and Kentucky to have that moment, it was just incredible. I have the toast ingrained in my memory forever!”

“Today we celebrate 144 years of tradition. From the rolling pastures to the limestone rich water that makes our thoroughbreds strong and our Bourbon stronger. This moment we share our Kentucky, and today we are all Kentuckians. Please join Woodford Reserve as we raise a glass to cheers The Best of Kentucky on Kentucky’s best day!”


It may seem like the entire Bourbon industry takes two weeks off to party nonstop, but there is still a lot of work to be done during that time period.

“During Derby season my duties as assistant master distiller shift to focusing mainly on brand ambassadorship and PR for Woodford Reserve,” says McCall. “[master distiller] Chris Morris and I will divide the duties and do some things together such as host VIP guests at the distillery, attend events in town, head to NYC for media, talk about the $1,000 mint julep as often as possible. All that while still keeping a plus on happenings within production and helping when and where I can. It is a very busy time with a very unconventional work schedule, but I wouldn’t have it any other way.”

“I don’t know if I have the right words to describe what The Kentucky Derby means to me,” McCall continues. “I have grown up with a passion for horses. My mom would drop me off at the barn in the morning and pick me up late in the afternoon. There was no place I would rather be but at a barn riding, grooming and cleaning stalls. Horses are very special creatures. I own a thoroughbred and their love to run is impeccable. Racing is truly in their blood, their hearts long to race, they give everything they have not because of the glory winning but because it’s what they were born to do. My horse is an-off-the track thoroughbred, when we would arrive at shows he would turn into a completely different horse. It’s like a switch would flip, he knew what he was there to do, compete. The passion these horses have for what they do makes me tear up everytime.”


Mint Julep Tours in Louisville offers horse farms as part of several of their tour packages. James Pepper Distillery in Lexington also dedicates a significant portion of its tour to the historic ties between the horse industry and the Bourbon industry. In between the two, you can stop by a thoroughbred horse farm for a tour nearly year round that has ties to both industries.

At Sun Valley Farm in Versailles the farm’s original owner was Samuel Pepper, whose father Elijah built the nearby Elijah Pepper Distillery, what today is called Woodford Reserve. (Samuel was also uncle to James E. Pepper.) You can even see many of Woodford Reserve’s rickhouses from the property, making this a great addition to a
Bourbon tour.

But perhaps the best way to learn all about The Kentucky Derby year-round is to visit The Kentucky Derby Museum. There you will find displays relating to jockeys, winners, hats and other traditional attire, and more.

And of course, you can tune in on the first Saturday in May.


Judging and distilling

A stint in the judge’s seat helps Maggie see beyond Kentucky 

For the second year in a row I have had the privilege of judging the World Whiskies Awards in Washington, D.C., held at the venerable Jack Rose Dining Saloon. Multiple teams judge round after round of different categories, from ryes to single malts, and everything in between. As you might imagine, Bourbon has been our largest category for quite some time in the American Whiskey portion of the competition. As we worked our way through what seemed like dozens of samples of Bourbon, it became immediately clear that there are some craft distilleries out there really coming into their own. Bourbons that don’t exemplify the typical Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey genre are often times quite interesting, and it gives this writer a great deal of admiration for those willing to put in the tremendous effort it takes to go up against the larger legacy distillers. Not that I knew what I was judging at any point in time, mind you, the judging is completely blind. However, reading through the results has helped me to realize I need to be paying closer attention to the up-and-comers of the whiskey world.

This year’s Best Bourbon in the World honor went to Barton 1792 Full Proof. If you haven’t had a chance to try it yet, I highly recommend picking up a bottle when you see one – with its skyrocketing popularity it is getting harder to find.

One of the biggest surprises for me was the sweeping victory for Balcones, the Texas craft distillery in Waco known for using heirloom corn which has only been around for a decade. Balcones Texas Blue Corn Bourbon took the honor of Best non-Kentucky Bourbon, Balcones True Blue 100 took the honor of Best American Corn Whiskey, and Balcones Texas Single Malt Single Barrel took the honor of Best American Single Cask Single Malt.

Entering blind contests is a great way for craft distillers to get noticed, because there is no room for preconceptions or bias. The products really get to speak for themselves.

“Bourbon has been our largest category for quite some time”

After the judging was over I headed out to Alexandria, Virginia to visit my friend Steve Bashore at Mount Vernon Distillery and Gristmill. He was elbow-deep in the first Bourbon run, particularly noteworthy because of the historic documentation he found to support making Bourbon at George Washington’s distillery. There was no Bourbon in Washington’s time as we understand the term today. Rather, back then they made what was known as ‘common whiskey,’ which means it is made with whatever grains are most plentiful and available, or whatever needs to be preserved. 

During my visit I spent most of the day in the distillery, which is a fabulous experience. They close it down to the public two months out of the year while they make spirits, because the precarious nature of mashing and distilling in period-accurate facilities and on period-accurate equipment does not lend itself well to having tourists traipsing through hour after hour. Not only was I privy to an experience that most people never get to have, but I also had the opportunity to participate in the process.

Rowing mash is hard work, arguably one of the hardest jobs in George Washington’s distillery aside from chopping wood. After watching Steve row tub after tub of mash I decided I needed to get in on the action. 

This was a great way to cap off the year’s whiskey adventures. I started the year on the Bourbon Classic’s main stage for the Whiskey Experts panel, followed by The New Orleans Bourbon Festival, where I led the Bourbon and cigar pairing seminars. Then I found myself in Minneapolis for the Whiskey on Ice Festival, before which I visited the
J. Carver Distillery and Dampfwerk distilleries. Next was a trip to New York, where I visited six cigar and whiskey bars as well as Widow Jane and Kings County distilleries, followed by six distilleries in three days in Virginia and a weekend at Treaty Oak Distillery in Texas after that. All this came before my final trip of the year to the World Whiskies Awards and Mount Vernon.

In 2019 I am looking forward to more trips outside of Kentucky to meet the people building the craft distilling industry. We have a great thing going here in Kentucky and the innovation coming from the craft distilleries outside is going to make us all stronger.


Woodford Reserve – Double Oaked

Woodford Reserve
Double Oaked 

Proof: 90.4
ABV: 45.2%
Style: Bourbon
State: KY 
Price: $50-$99.99

Rob Allanson – 9.1

Nose: Sweet up front. Candied almonds, coated in hard sugar, caramel toffee chews, Dutch honey syrup wafer and milky coffee.Oak takes hold with tannins and spices.

Palate: More fruit, overpowering the oak. Apples, poached pears and runny honey. Tarte tatin – that caramalized sugar edge. Nutmeg and cinnamon.

Finish: Rich with vanilla cream and spice. Morish.

Comments: A liquid apple pie, just ask for more.

Sam Coyne – 8.4

Nose: Swing back a few months, untangle the lights and put that Christmas tree back up. Sweet, spices; nutmeg, cinnamon and oak. Vanilla, caramel and a touch of honey.

Palate: Stewed raisins and sultanas with honey up-front. Oak spice grabs you by the shoulders and shakes. 

Finish: Rich, the festive spices return.

Comments: Good, straight forward Bourbon, that surprises more than a little. Is there anything not to like about this one?

William Larue Weller – Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Barrel Proof

William Larue Weller 
Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Barrel Proof 

Proof: 128.2
ABV: 64.1%
Style: Bourbon
State: KY
Price: $50-$99.99

Rob Allanson – 8.5

Nose: A huge yet gentle nose centering on caramel chews, fresh baked cookies and spiced honey cashew nuts. Butterscotch fondant and wood.

Palate: Gentle and smooth. Plenty of  sweet caramel notes. Dried orange and vanilla ice cream. Hints of fresh figs and cherries too.

Finish: A little short but full of sweetness and a little saline minerality in there too.

Comments: A great, enjoyable Bourbon. To be sipped and savored with friends.

Sam Coyne – 8.0

Nose: Really sweet. Toffee, fudge and milk chocolate cookies. Earthy cereal notes and finally a little oak spice at the end.

Palate: More of the caramel, but this time it covers plum fruits and figs. There’s a biscuity edge too and hints of peppered rye-like spice. 

Finish: Middling, but sweet before ending up with earthy cereals. 

Comments: Very nice, but quite reserved and nothing too punchy. A rounded number that has its place on everyone’s shelf. 

Elijah Craig – Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey

Elijah Craig
Small Batch Bourbon Whiskey 
Heaven Hill Brands

Proof: 94
ABV: 47%
Style: Bourbon
State: KY 
Price: $$

Rob Allanson 8.9

Nose: So floral at first. A florist’s on a sunny day, jasmine, honeysuckle and orchids; heady stuff. Then red apples, poached pears and waxy mango. Sugar-coated orange sweets.

Palate: Follows the nose well, floral notes then those wonderful fruits. Oranges with brown sugar, pears in cider and caramel candy.

Finish: Juicy citrus notes, then it dries on tannins; think black tea.

Comments: Oh yes, hello Kentucky. If the state did orange groves…

Sam Coyne 7.8

Nose: Caramel and a big oaked spice note. Sweetness of toffee apples comes through.

Palate: Sweetness continues, along with tannins and oak Caramel and vanilla comes to the fore, although moves to rye bread and spice. Menthol and coriander moves towards  a real drying grassiness.

Finish: Long and spicy.

Comments: No one flavor takes over, but wooded spice errs on being too much. Palate has a lot going on. Balance is impressive.